KOREAN NOTES: report and impressions

KOREAN NOTES: report and impressions

 

I had been in South Korea two years ago on a quick getaway without pretensions, but necessary for better breathing. Travel, as Baudelaire says in his famous and eponymous poem, is neither an obligation nor a necessity: if you want travel, and many do it for different reasons while many prefer not to move. For me it has always been something vital and little by little it has revealed itself to be a decisive moment in the construction of my person: encouraged by my father and as a remedy for the immobility of ideology, travel has taken on a key to understanding my person and an essential tool for metabolizing. Naturally following the teaching of Baudelaire who says: “The true traveler travels only to leave”. This verse has rarely remained to adorn my journey, like a maxim of life, because I have devoured and expelled it several times, trying to capture one of the 360 ​​possible angles that would suggest something not seen or touched before.

I have, almost immediately, given up on providing a metaphysical vision common to all travellers, one that allows one to declare that one has identified the “true” Country and the “true” inhabitant of that Country. First it is the claim of having revealed an “absolute truth” about men and institutions that not even those who live there are able to grasp. Second it is the erroneous perspective that excludes us from the study, transforming us into “external observers” who neither condition the phenomenon nor are conditioned by it.

I have applied to the journey some of the methods used in the theory of complexity that considers the scholar, in this case the traveller, as an essential part of the phenomenon.

Two years ago I was only six days, two in Seoul two in Gyeongju two in Busan. Too little, perhaps, even if it is difficult to say what is or is not “little”, especially for those who are looking for signs, that is, suggestions, to better and more fully come to terms with themselves. There is no solid reason to choose Korea nor do I remember what made me think of that country in a period, the pre-winter one, quite rigid in terms of temperatures.

Curiosity, comparison, diversity, television, cinema, or perhaps some stimulus that I was unable to transform into thought. It doesn’t matter.

 

Everyone knows the history of Korea, from the Japanese invasion to the communist aggression to the Korean War that ended with a simple armistice that created a division between a state that was still rigidly communist and a state, the one in the south, that although not automatically chose freedom, political and economic. The few reports that come out of the north show a very poor country in the hands of an exalted and strongly repressive ruling group with a military attitude of a great power and continuous provocations especially towards Japan and South Korea. After the riots of 1980 and the Gwangju massacre, the south went more and more in the direction of a liberal democracy and was able to take advantage of the globalization of the end of the century to guarantee development and well-being. The recent Nobel Prize to the South Korean writer Han Kang shows that the country has a cultural fabric of a certain thickness if we also consider the success in the music, television and cinema fields. In Italy it is possible to follow some TV series, comedies and dramas (K-dramas), and many films, from the simplest to the most complex, some for few people and others very successful: the Oscar to Parasite in 2020 and the films of director Kim Ki-duk or Bong Joon-ho, director of Parasite as well as two interesting films such as Mother and Memories of murder. Among the TV series, a couple with the actor Lee Sun-kyun seemed very interesting to me, also accompanied by a poignant but engaging music: Payback and My mister.

The first trip was such a taste that I could not read even a single character and – even more serious fault – I was unaware of the existence of soju that I would curiously discover (and appreciate) in Vietnam.

To avoid duplication or repetitions I will speak by combining the two trips.

 

 

SEOUL

First linguistic digression belongs to the capital. A longer trip required greater attention, so I also prepared myself to read the characters of the language which is called “hangug-eo”. Since elementary school I was taught that the capital of South Korea was pronounced SEOUL; studying hangug I understood that the transcription “eo” should be pronounced simply “o” and that the added “e” is used to distinguish the grave “o” from the acute “o” which are two different characters. Therefore, if you want to go to the capital of South Korea you have to say SOUL not SEOUL. This happened during my trip every time the TV, people or announcements pronounced it. As Seoul is Soul so Jeonju is Jonju, Yeosu is Yosu and so on.

Seoul is a beautiful and interesting city, because it is multifaceted. Near the sea where its airport is, it is substantially flat, but it has a hill, Namsan, a river and in the background real mountains especially in the North. It is characterized by wide flowing avenues accompanied by modern buildings and also by a neighborhood of traditional low houses; there are numerous historical monuments scattered and not concentrated in a single area. Concentrated within what was the powerful city of the past whose gates we can admire, it does not have a real center, but is divided into areas that we could call neighborhoods, even if vast. The Han River to the south represented an important limit, but the city continued to develop beyond first in a way consistent with the modernity of the city and then even more on the outskirts with anonymous skyscrapers like those found throughout East Asia to accommodate the new inhabitants.

A quick review of the monuments, more or less ancient, is necessary, even if I do not intend to develop the detail: every guidebook does it better than me.

The beauty of Seoul is that you can combine the visit of historical monuments with pleasant walks for shopping or a coffee with the presence of interesting modern structures. A route that I really liked was starting from Seoul Station (modern building and historical building) and proceeding towards NW: soon you come across a beautiful South Gate (Nam) and then in front of the very modern City Hall with its Square there is a historical Palace, the Deoksugung; it should be noted that here when we talk about Palaces we mean a large space with various lawns and buildings. From the next intersection with Jong-ro a large pedestrian street starts that leads to the Royal Palace, an enormous space with gates and historical buildings, at the entrance of which you can watch costumed events. This stretch of road is truly pleasant with statues that recall Admiral Yi Sun-sin and King Sejong the Great, while on the walls the history of classical Korea unfolds with plays of colors and images. Despite the side streets crossed by car traffic, the route is quiet and relaxing thanks also to the clear and clear sky of the Korean autumn. Not far away, to the east, we find a bastion and a lively Buddhist temple, the Jogyesa, and from here visit the old village with its characteristic houses, Bukchon Hanok, with more than 400 years of history: although it is not the best in Korea, it is worth it for a first taste.

At this point we are in Insa-dong, street and district of handicraft and souvenir shops, prized for fabrics, brushes and masks. Going south you come across several historical relics along the Jong-ro, one of the main arteries of the city that has a large space characterized by a Confucian sanctuary (Jongmyo) dedicated to the royals of the Joseon dynasty where ritual ceremonies are still held today. A slight detour to the north to immerse yourself in the enormous Changgyeonggung Palace Park, where there is a complex of four large traditional Korean palaces, as well as shrines and gardens.

A few hundred meters further south and then east you arrive at Dongdaemun Area where the historical east gate (Dong) and a reconstructed section of the imperial walls are located.

The historical route presented here is purely theoretical and difficult to do in one day; above all, it is not worth it.

Other gates and temples deserve equal interest, even if they are located in distant points from each other: it is difficult to reach the northern gate, the Buksomun, which dates back to the 14th century, while the Bongwon-sa Buddhist temple is easier, with the usual green space, a stream, various statues, and classical pictorial and statuary iconography. Another Buddhist temple is located south of the river in the well-known Gangnam district and is worth a visit: Bongeungsa, more modern and with a Buddha statue over 20 meters high.

The last historical aspects, well-kept and interesting even if not particularly shocking, are two separate spaces that house the royal tombs, one pyramid-shaped, the other semi-spherical: they are located in the southern part not far from the famous skyscraper. The Lotte Tower.

Taking a good guidebook is good to be inspired even if sometimes it can be tiring and fall short of expectations, but that’s the journey. For example, as soon as I arrived at 7 in the morning, I left my trolley at the hotel and set off in a somewhat casual direction and so, meter after meter, I enjoyed the stretch that leads from the station to the Royal Palace: it was an immense joy, because not only was I not wandering aimlessly, but new and interesting spaces continually opened up.

Of course, tourists are not satisfied with monuments but are also interested in culture in the broad sense and from this point of view Seoul offers a lot, with museums full of material and a large, evocative memorial of the Korean War, which is worth approaching.

Let’s move now  on to naturalistic aspects and neighborhoods.

First of all, Namsan Hill, which rises not far from the central area and is easily reached thanks to a cable car: it is a place loved by the inhabitants who leave traces of their love there (messages, padlocks, chains); there is a beautiful view and there are also the remains of a watchtower. The hill is also a hiking destination and halfway up there are the remains of ancient walls. The best view is in front of Yonsan Park, especially at sunset.

The presence of parks and green areas is another characteristic of the city; they are not as large as the Bois de Boulogne but they are widespread and well maintained.

A place where it is pleasant to wander around even by bike is located near the river and is the island of Yeouido, formed by two bends, easily reachable by subway.

A nice walk is also the one along the Cheonggyecheon canal, completely restored in recent years and transformed into a long and very popular promenade where you can see herons and other birds, crossed by trees especially willows and with various murals. It goes from the City Hall to Dongdaemun and beyond passing near two of the most famous and appetizing markets of the city, the Gwangjang and the Majang.

 

Moving on to the neighborhoods, in addition to those that incorporate parks and monuments, some are worth mentioning.

1) Myeong-dong, considered the center of the city and characterized by the market, also at night, of Namdaemun; it is located between the station, the canal and the Namsan.

2)The university district of Ehwa and Sinchon, very lively due to the presence of students with a wide tree-lined avenue completely pedestrianized built on an old railway line: very lively and full of clubs especially in the evening.

3)Dongdaemun, where next to the old eastern gate a huge square was created, the Dogdaemun Design Plaza. It is a real cultural hub that hosts artistic events and has at its center a series of futuristic buildings designed by the famous architect Zaha Hadid. The central building is sinuous and almost labyrinthine with counterpoints of empty and full, tunnels and squares, very interesting also because it represents the Center of Korean Fashion and was one of the main reasons why Seoul was designated as the World Design Capital in 2010. It can be the landing point of a walk along the canal.

4)Gangnam south of the river is a wealthy neighborhood, made famous worldwide by the famous song “Gangnam style”; it is worth it both for the Temple mentioned above and for the modern but significant statues that wind along Yeongdong-daero

5)Also, south of the river and east of Gangnam there is another beautiful modern neighborhood where the Lotte tower stands with two ponds and the large Olympic Park: not far away are the royal tombs I mentioned above.

What else is there to say? Wander around Seoul, walk without necessarily having a destination, enjoy the autumn air and sky, photograph the colorful seasonal foliage, discover this and that unexpected statue in which the artist plays with matter. It is true that this characteristic is now common to all large cities on all continents, but here it is part of a journey that is never tiring. You can go on foot and walk for miles or take one of the longest subways in the world and when you are tired stop at a “Cafè and dessert” to enjoy an espresso or an Americano with wonderful desserts (I love the Kastella with cream of Japanese origin). The number of these places is impressive; not only Starbucks, but many others, including Paris baguette and Paris Croissant, or Pascucci, Megacafè.

If you need to go to the toilet, no problem because in all of Korea, not only in Seoul, the density of free and clean toilets is equal to that of the cafés.

Seeing is believing. Knowing is learning.

The surroundings offer many possibilities, including sea and mountains, but the most interesting places are DMZ and Suwon.

 

DMZ is the Korean demilitarized zone, that is, a strip of land that crosses the Korean peninsula. It is established by the provisions of the Korean armistice agreement to act as a buffer zone between North Korea and South Korea. There are many tours that take you there, in two pre-established areas, and allow you to see some remains of the conflict (tunnels, bridges) but above all it provides the opportunity to be able to say that you have looked at North Korea. I’m not saying that it is not interesting, but I do not consider it necessary.

The story regarding Suwon is different, which is located half an hour by train from the capital in the SW direction. As a royal city it needed protection and for this reason in the 18th century it was surrounded by walls that have remained almost intact. The interest lies precisely in its reproduction of the original structure, so much so that it is possible to walk its entire 5.6 km, and this requires a couple of hours or a little more. It is an extraordinary route, a mix between the Great Wall and the historical oriental Gates that we find both in Korea and China (e.g. in Xi’an). The walls are interspersed with grandiose and well-decorated gates and numerous watchtowers or bastions: the whole thing winds partly through a forest and is therefore very pleasant. Naturally, the perimeter wall encloses parts of the modern city that are not invasive: in the central part we also find a parade ground with the Royal Palace where folkloristic events in armor with sword and spear games take place, while near the southern gate it is possible to visit a very popular Buddhist temple. A canal crosses the city from north to south, making it even more pleasant. Over the last few decades, the city has transformed into an industrial centre, also due to its proximity to the international airport and the capital, but growth has occurred quite far outside the walls and therefore a visit to the fortress is also a peaceful immersion in the noble past.

 

JEONJU

A little over two hours from Seoul is this modern city with an ancient heart and interesting surroundings.

The ancient heart is given by Ma-eul-Hanok, a term that we found in Seoul and which indicates a village with houses of the past: Mae-ul means village, while Hanok (Han is Korea and Ok is house) is the typical traditional Korean house, here characterized by a single floor and tiled roofs forming a movement that recalls that of temples. Compared to other villages that I found on the island of Jeju or near Andong, the houses here are more structured and more elegant, certainly because it was the capital of the Hubaekje Kingdom and the spiritual capital being the cradle of the most famous dynasty, that of the Joseon. At the center of the village is the royal area with a large park, a beautiful sanctuary and several palaces for guests, in one of which there is the museum with royal portraits dressed in traditional court attire.

West of the Royal Park there are two temples from north to south, a classical style gate and the Jeondong Cathedral among the first built in Korea, at the beginning of 1900. Two hills on the outskirts with two small temples allow a certain view of the whole city and at their feet towards the river we find a group of buildings that belong to a Confucian school with a huge tree that stands on a rock.

In Jeonju in the part closest to the historic center there is a street called Film Street dedicated to cinema and Korean actors with a modest imitation of the Hollywood Walk of Fame.

You can’t go to Jeonju without going to the Maisan Provincial Park characterized by two sugarloaf mountains facing each other but which allows a path that passes between the two, a path made of rich vegetation, a watercourse, two temples, one classical and another made of stones. The walk doesn’t take more than two hours and, with good weather and crisp air, it is truly pleasant. You can reach both sides, south and north, by bus and in any case, there is a reference city a few kilometers away, the city of Jinan.

To conclude, it should be remembered that the city is considered the “home of bibimbap” one of the most typical Korean dishes, made of crispy rice with vegetables and an egg, with the possibility of adding meat: in this regard in the historic village, on the main street, there is a restaurant that offers only this dish and advertises itself as an award winner.

It is worth it.

 

GWANGJU

Further south, but still far from the sea there is this city that made the history of Korea following a popular uprising in 1980 that was bloodily repressed and that paved the way for full democracy. The most interesting part of this metropolis is the Asia Culture Centre, both a theater and a museum, with the aim of enhancing Asian artistic production, regardless of religious, social and linguistic characteristics. It is a huge space, also composed of a large lawn, which move on different levels and with different perspectives, between black and white, closed and open, green and concrete. The most engaging part is a statue in the shape of a hand with the fingers in a V sign of victory, but expressed with only the bones to remember the repression suffered: the author is a Chinese who participated in the Tien An-men uprising, thus wanting to bring together the two dramatic events, the Korean one in 1980 and the Chinese one in 1989.

This is what I saw, but the region is rich in natural parks and historical-religious memories.

 

JEJU ISLANd

Beyond the southern tip of the peninsula are islands and archipelagos, of which Jeju Island is not only the largest but also the most famous. A popular destination for all Koreans of all tendencies and locations. Being far south it enjoys a more moderate climate than the rest of Korea and also has many interesting landmarks both historical and natural. It is an island of volcanic origin so much so that it is called “the black island” and in fact many of its internal and coastal parts have dark stones and rocks typically volcanic; but there are also beaches of light sand, with palm trees and transparent waters (near Hallim and Hamdeok for example). The island is dominated by a volcanic mountain range with craters to reach which takes about 4 hours of hiking, but there is also another crater on the sea of ​​​​smaller size and height in the eastern part, Ilchubong: a temple at the base and a steep climb of about 20 minutes. This part is also very characteristic for the presence of some beaches and because it is the region where the haenyeo, women who dive without respirators to catch shells, still operate: the number that in 1940 counted 30,000 women has been reduced to 2,800 which is still a good number, if we think of the contrast with the technology of the 21st century. The inhabitants hold them in high regard so much so that there are numerous statues that reproduce them. The landscape is very green especially in the central regions, while in the plain that surrounds the mountain group agriculture is intense and intensive, through greenhouses and outdoors to produce citrus fruits, especially mandarins. Palm trees along the coast give a sense of a tropical environment while rivers and waterfalls are not lacking to give an almost spring-like image; it is clear that, as in the rest of Korea, summer is very rainy here too. Despite the dominance of nature, there is no lack of important historical remains, such as temples (the one in Sanbanggul at the foot of an isolated mountain is very beautiful for its colors and statues) and above all the presence of a couple of popular villages left or rebuilt as they once were. The most interesting is certainly Seongeup in the central eastern part, authentic with the original walls and gate, made up, unlike Jeonju, of low houses with straw roofs, a space in front and the characteristic small, isolated building for bodily needs. Nothing artificial, a small temple, a café and a small shop selling basic necessities: after all, the city of Pyeoseon on the sea is not far away. The structure of the numerous houses is similar, but varies in consistency and size of the property, delimited as elsewhere by separation walls, in this case black due to their volcanic origin: the presence of a persimmon tree is inevitable, as in the rest of Korea.

The two largest cities, Jeju-si to the north and Seogwipo to the south are not of particular interest, the first with a pleasant seafront decorated with marine animals and a museum, the second with a street dedicated to the highly esteemed local painter Lee Jung-seop who decorated it.

Getting around the island is easy since it is a four-lane road all the way through, if it weren’t always for the speed limits and controls with abrupt changes from the maximum of 80 to 30: I hope I didn’t get any fines. Even though the island is only 73 km wide and 31km from north to south, traveling around it requires its own time and exclusively for the road traffic under constant observation.

Being an island very popular with Koreans themselves, it is full of hotels, guesthouses, B&Bs that in high season, i.e. spring and summer, are often full. There are buses but it is not worth it: there are numerous rental companies.

Fish is of course very popular in restaurants and is not very cheap, but there is no shortage of chicken, fried Korean style with honey, and pork in general BBQ.

An unmissable feature that decisively distinguishes the island is the presence everywhere of statues of human beings called “stone grandfathers” regularly made with volcanic stone with a hat and very highlighted facial features and hands, practically without legs: their height varies and they represent protection and a warning against adversity and for this reason they are usually found in pairs in front of the gates and entrances of both houses and temples. They will accompany the traveller far and wide because they express an ancestral faith that has been handed down over the last centuries, at least five according to scholars.

 

YEOSU

Yeosu-si is an important but not large city on the rugged southern coast, which became famous above all for the Universal Exhibition held there in 2012 focused on marine resources and which left some buildings and a museum still worth visiting today. The city is famous from a historical point of view because the final battle against the Japanese occupier took place not far away in 1598, who were definitively expelled from the peninsula: the credit went to a Korean hero, Admiral Yi Sun-sin who had already defeated the Japanese army several times thanks also to the invention of the so-called “turtle ship”, a real battleship from another time. Yeosu remembers him with a statue, an avenue and many reproductions of the flagship: the final battle of Noryang saw the death of the Japanese general, but also of the Korean Admiral whose deeds are still remembered today by most Koreans.

The city is famous for the largest wooden building in the entire peninsula, which housed the Korean Navy Headquarters at the time of Yi Sun-si: not original, but characteristic for its roof and colonnades.

Then there is a place much loved by Korean tourists and it is the island of Ondong-do, connected to the mainland by a long bridge and suggestive especially in spring because it is literally covered by camellia plants, scented and colorful, not by chance reproduced in various shapes along the walls of the bridge. Finally, a beautiful temple 30 km from the city, Hyangiram, among the sacred places of a current of Mahayana Buddhism.

 

BUSAN (PUSAN)

For us two spellings because <p> and <b> are interchangeable in the Korean alphabet.

Busan is the second city of the country and is located at the southeastern tip of the peninsula; it is an important port and has expanded far and wide over the last few decades, settling between the numerous hills that characterize the area. Unlike Seoul, Busan is above all a modern city with numerous skyscrapers of architectural value and that offer interesting perspectives. The city is made up of various neighborhoods, large beaches, hills, promontories, islands and everything is connected by trains, buses, subway in an excellent way but, precisely because of the characteristics of the territory, very time-consuming. The visitor here must invent the trip because there is no royal palace, no extraordinary museum, no historical relic, but there is everything that can please us without anxiety or frenzy. A temple is worth a visit, although the distance and the different means of transport needed to get there can be discouraging, especially if you don’t have much time available.

Busan is the Korean Hollywood and in addition to the film festivals there is a waterfront street that recalls the history of Korean cinema with images and statues and is one of the places that, although not unforgettable, are worth visiting.

The markets are a great aspect of the city both for their number and quality, such as Jagalchi, the largest seafood market in all of Korea and, as is natural, in every market there is the possibility of tasting street food that presents the sum of the Korean food varieties.

The Haeundae district, in addition to a large and beautiful beach, in addition to a delicious food market, offers the possibility of an excursion to the east with colorful trains or Sky capsules, much loved by lovers.

It can be said that this is the eastern end of the city, while the western end is represented by the mouth of the longest river in the country, the Nakdong, about 30 km away; the city extends north for about twenty kilometers but now many areas that were once peripheral are part of Greater Busan.

The port is important not only for freight traffic, but also for passenger traffic, because it represents a rapid connection of a few hours (4-6) with the Japanese city of Fukuoka.

Among the curious visits are the train station and a particular village that is located on the hills, the Gamcheon Culture village, with colored houses arranged in an amphitheater, shops and characteristic places, the result of an artistic transformation of what was once a shanty town. It is located at the western end just before the great river and requires at least an hour by bus, and even more, depending on the place of departure.

And then in Busan there is everything that there is in Seoul in terms of daily life, lots of cafes, lots of color, lots of young people, especially in the university district, lots of opportunities to have fun and hang out: in short, everything that a modern metropolis can offer: I was only there for two days in a pre-Christmas period, but I think that a week can allow you to enjoy the opportunities offered by the city to the fullest.

 

Going up north there are two cities that are worth visiting for their historical importance: Gyeongju and Andong.

 

GYEONGJU

The city is quite modest in its central body, but it is characterized by a history that is not bad since it was the capital for almost a thousand years of the Kingdom of Silla until 935 AD and this past centrality allows us to recover its legacy in the present.

A few steps south of the town center and we find a large park with royal tombs in the shape of hills surrounded by trees in an idyllic setting; no one would think of a cemetery, but fortunately the largest tomb has been opened to the public, allowing you to see what those unpredictable hills is underneath. The space is such as to present the burial chamber, corridors, while the objects that accompanied the journey of the deceased are remembered by photographs and can be admired in the Gyeongju National Museum. The park is interrupted by an important road and is very large, let’s say about two km from north to south and one km from east to west.

The park is popular as a place for walks for families and lovers, thanks to the presence of meadows and willows and pines, but it also has other historical structures, among which a curious observatory stands out that looks more like a small chimney or the wall and the access door to the tomb of King Michu. At the southwest end of the park opens the traditional village, much more modest than that of Jeonju with cafes and various types of places.

Leaving the city towards the southeast we encounter the foundations of a fortress and above all the Donggung Palace with the Wolji pond: it is a very suggestive and iconic place so much so that it is one of the most representative images of all Korea. The palace that is reflected in the pond is beautiful, the rocks and plants that surround the palace are beautiful and the air you breathe is pleasant, especially on a fresh sunny autumn day.

The city offers many other small things, but also important realities at a certain distance.

The most important of all, easily reachable by bus, is the Bulguk-sa, a Buddhist temple dating back to the 6th-8th century AD, among the most visited and venerated in the entire country. Like all important temples, it is divided into several spaces that open one after the other with characteristic buildings, galleries, and real pagodas. The place is interesting artistically, but also for the lateral spaces that open protected by characteristic walls: it is, as in similar places, a place where engaged couples love to dress in traditional clothes and have professional photo shoots, as a wish for their future together.

From here you can go up to another sacred place, six km away, using an infrequent bus or a somewhat expensive taxi: the Seokguram cave. Once you reach the parking lot, you still must walk a kilometer through the forest to get to a very colorful space with lanterns and where there is, inside a cave, a statue of the Buddha, considered the greatest masterpiece of Korean art related to the Buddha. The statue cannot be photographed, so photo addicts should abstain.

I stopped here, but the region offers a truly incredible number of historical reminiscences that can only be reached in a reasonable amount of time with a rental car: it’s worth it.

 

ANDONG

The city is much more intimate than the previous one, but no less interesting. The historical-artistic visit is less important, but the city offers some interesting ideas regarding daily life.

Let’s start with the first part.

In the city there is nothing that reminds us of the past, there are no palaces or royal tombs, but the idyllic landscape characterized by a winding river and various types of asperities have meant that the city remained collected in itself over the centuries, becoming a refuge for thinkers, painters, writers, always in a meditative position. A couple of km to the NE, easily reachable on foot, there is the seven-story brick Pagoda (Sinse-dong) 18 meters high with small decorative statues and is quite isolated despite a small building and a new modern concrete pagoda. It is one of the pagodas of this type left in Korea but which is easier to see in neighboring China, for what the Cultural Revolution left standing.

The places of greatest interest are however located a few dozen km away and are the Hahoe Folk Village about 30 km away and the large Confucian Academy of Dosan Seowon 35 km away but in the opposite direction: both are easily reachable by bus.

The village of Hahoe is, together with the one visited in Jeju, perhaps the most characteristic folk village in all of Korea. It has remained as it was originally, bordered by a stream, and still with some residents. It is very large and has different structures, because the homes of the common people were made of bricks with thatched roofs, while politicians and administrators lived in classic brick houses, decorated, with curved tile roofs imitating temples and with ornate doors. The village also has a Christian church left as it was, and various buildings used for ceremonies. The autumn landscape is very particular, a little grey with the cloudy sky, but very pleasant with the sun, due to the presence of the inevitable persimmons and the yellow foliage that gilds the environment.

A few kilometers from the village there is a small but interesting Confucian Academy.

 

The Confucian Academy that cannot be missed is instead that of Dosan Seowon, immersed in a dense forest landscape and in front of a lake where there is a small island with a small temple. This Academy is built almost like a temple, with many spaces going up and buildings that recall the life of the Confucian sages: we have the rooms where the students lived, simple but adequate, the reading rooms, the printing house and the actual school where the founder, Yi Hwang, called Toegye, considered one of the main intellectuals in the history of Korea, taught. He founded the Academy in 1574 to spread what is called neo-Confucianism: a room is dedicated to him with pictorial reproductions like those with which the Nobles and Kings were represented.

As for daily life, it must be said that Andong is considered a first-rate culinary center whose specialties can be tasted in the old market, covered and very lively especially in the evening. If Jeonju is the home of bibimbap, Andong is the home of Andong Jjimdak, a marinated and stewed chicken. Two other products have made the city famous: the mackerel imported over the centuries from the coast 70 km away, salted and then grilled is considered the best in all of Korea and the Soju which however has a higher alcohol content than the usual 16° reaching 21° so it is also tastier. Speaking of Soju, the Soju Museum could not be missed, but tasting is not provided.

One of the most appreciated souvenirs by tourists are the masks, once used in village festivals and which are found almost everywhere; the artistic centre of these masks, generally made of wood (especially alder), is considered to be Andong, which celebrates this tradition with a real festival every autumn and has built a Mask Museum which also presents objects from many centuries ago and it is said that one of the masks present there dates back to 5000 years ago.

 

BRIC A’ BRAC

Korea loves meat and alcohol, but does not disdain fish, vegetables and coffee. Pork, especially black (like the Spanish Pata negra or the Cinta senese), is the basis of the traditional method, the barbeque, including rigatino and pancetta, usually accompanied by soju, this type of sake (no offense) 350 cl, and 16° which costs 1 euro in supermarkets and 3 euros in restaurants. To avoid the smoke from the grill creating problems, each table is equipped with a cylindrical extractor that works very well.

The fish is usually salted and dried before being cooked over a high flame. There is no shortage of soups, with many vegetables, eggs and also meat or fish, plus mushrooms, seaweed, ginger and various types of chili pepper. I have already spoken about bibimbap.

Another thing to say is that each dish is accompanied by a series of small side dishes, more or less spicy, more or less numerous, among which kimchi is never missing. Kimchi is a vegetable (usually white cabbage) fermented for a long time and flavored with chili pepper: you may not like it both because of the spiciness and the acid that comes from the fermentation. I like it.

Desserts are enjoyed especially with coffee, hot or cold, usually American, and there are various contaminations with Japanese (Kastella) or European (brioche, maritozzi) pastries and various types of cheesecake. Generally, a dinner or lunch is not concluded with a dessert, possibly fruit.

Restaurants are very popular, especially with families and groups of friends who, when they get together, do not pay attention to alcohol consumption and it is also possible to see many bottles of soju on or near a table for four. The BBQ is conceived as something convivial, so I was denied the possibility of eating at the grill because I was alone, but this is also linked to the fact that I would have occupied a table for four people.

The pleasure of food is also visible from the presence of numerous stalls that are found along the streets, some simple ones sell ready-made or freshly made products, while there are also many that have one or two tables and prepare more elaborate hot dishes and have a plastic cover to guarantee lunch even in bad weather.

A special note concerns ice cream. Unlike the rest of the world (partly also Italy) in Korea the ice cream is not Ice-cream, but actually GELATO to recognize the origin of the product and, hopefully, the quality.

As I wrote previously the quantity of coffee-desserts is proportional to the number of public toilets and vice versa, making wandering around the streets very pleasant also in this aspect.

Traffic is quite fluid even in the city, especially because the traffic lights are synchronized in very long times and pedestrians and drivers have no problem waiting: the pedestrian traffic lights are in this sense truly “eternal” and I was the only one who didn’t wait for the green light, so my friend Taeyong started laughing and it was not possible to convince him to cross with the red light even if there were no cars in sight. The police, both traffic and non-traffic, are quite present, but always in a discreet way and in any case the cities are well equipped with cameras and in general people feel safe and protected, while transport and communication services are widespread and well organized.

The rail connections between the most important cities are made with bullet trains allowing rapid movement, while most of the road connections are now on two-lane or more highways. The thing is quite interesting, because you always pass through a dominant nature, but, once you leave the highway, you enter an extremely slow and relaxed rural world, where time seems almost stopped and the places took me back to my childhood. Despite this, even in the villages there is no shortage of Convenience stores, small supermarkets, where you can find everything; there is not only 7/11, but here too, as for the Cafés, there is no shortage of competition. One thing that can amaze is the presence of Christian churches, of different confessions and from different periods. At first sight they appear more numerous than Buddhist temples and in reality, the statistics speak of 30% against 22%, while those who have not expressed preferences only a small part are non-believers, because many other beliefs are widespread, even with civil reference (for example the Confucian derivation).

My friend from Busan was in this group.

 

AU DELA’

To better understand the meaning of the journey, it is necessary to return to a brief etymological disquisition: the close link that exists in neolatin languages between “different” (diverse) and “fun” (divertissement). What is fun is what is different. Dis and vertere, to turn away.

This brings me to a broader reflection that circulates in the clichés of modern social media: before getting to know foreign countries, you need to know Italy. Said like that, it is a phrase that means nothing, because I should not go to Japan if I have not first visited Castiglion Fiorentino, Uderzo, Orgosolo, Menfi and everything that makes Italy the first country in the world for historical places. Then it would be better to take the citizenship of Liechtenstein so that we can visit the whole world from childhood.

But that phrase still has a meaning, which takes us back to our roots. Spiral, going back to move forward. Thanks to my father, I have been able to visit many historical places in my country, but not everyone has (had) this luck: it is the school that should educate children and adolescents starting from our roots. Unfortunately, the school has given up on this process, favoring the penetration, even if in softer forms than in Anglo-Saxon countries, of the “cancel culture”.

Glo-cal: intimate relationship between global and local.

Having said that, I must repeat the pleasure I felt in returning to South Korea dedicating a more adequate time: two weeks instead of six days. Having visited more than half the world, I am happy that my friend Fate has granted me this opportunity transformed into will. Complete knowledge does not exist, but only suggestions that we must want to broaden and deepen; as, in short, Pascoli taught us.

Suggestion is not synonymous with absolute truth, but its truth cannot be rejected: and so, wanting to leave among the various possibilities, I preferred to return to South Korea. Returning in a spiral, reliving in a new way, being reborn and recreating. And this is the meaning of my journey, not yours or his, but my journey.

In Busan I met a girl who helped me on the subway and told me how much she enjoyed living in that metropolis; in Andong I met a boy from Seoul who visited monuments like me and told me about his student dreams. Two years ago and this time all the people I asked for information stopped, opened their smartphones and did everything they could to orient me. Not all, but almost.

I had known the temples and houses, but this time I saw new ones, with different shapes and the different stories they hid. I realized how people try to keep their distance from Japan, an invader and oppressor for centuries, even though Japanese, together with Chinese and English, is the language of communication on public transport, demonstrating that today’s Japanese are still welcome. For them too, history goes back to move forward. And then, on site, thinking about the Japanese domination over the centuries, quite brutal in 1900, I confirm what I have always thought and written: the West not only has not done worse than other peoples, but on the contrary, it was the first to decide, in institutions and in facts, to overcome the historical human attitude.

South Korea is not heaven on earth and, Tayeb confirmed, there is bullying, corruption (e.g. the President’s wife), abuse and everything that belongs to the condition of being human, but there is no lack of criticism, proposals and the search for happiness. The civil reaction to the President’s recent golpe demonstrates just that. Despite the threats from the North, the country appears lively, a writer (a woman) has been awarded the Nobel Prize for literature, cinema, music and television are doing great. The urban landscape of Seoul has been revalued and history goes hand in hand with modernity. The streets, cafes, bars and restaurants are full of young people, couples and friends, and it is pleasant to mingle, even if oriental modesty will keep one’s distance.

Mine is not a sociological analysis, but only the reaction to an encounter. And of course I can highlight the differences in impact with Latin America, Africa, the Arab and Islamic world in general: in some ways the encounter with South Korea seems very similar to what I experienced in China, Japan and even Thailand. As a traveller, I am not a historian, but my culture and my cultural references allow me to go beyond the stereotypes that, for better or worse, unite neophytes and ideologues.

I will go to Iceland, Colombia and Tahiti, but that does not take away the pleasure I felt this second time in South Korea. For now I can read characters, maybe next time I will be able to say a few sentences.